Here is a long-overdue update. It seems that we've been busy traveling, and that I've been feeling a bit like there's not that much that's new. But as I read the last post, it seems that there is a LOT that's new.
First, we had a great time in Elizabeth City. The strange thing was that the city goes WAY OUT OF THEIR WAY to attract cruising boaters to stay and enjoy this cute little town. It's an old town, and its primary resources were cotton processing, timber, some food crops, and tobaccao. Then, times changed, and they need Tourism to survive. So, they have 14 FREE slips available and a FREE Happy Hour every day! There is a group called the ROSE BUDDIES who come down to the town docks at 1630 every day, and give out roses to cruisers who come in. The Mayor comes to the Visitors Center, where there's free beer and wine, cheese and munchies, and tells us what's available for our entertainment: restaurants, the Albemarle Museum, the free ride to the grocery store, the local winery, etc. The mayor is a live wire, and so energetic. I spoke with him for half an hour, and the next day when he saw me on the street he came right over to say hello, and to ask if we'd had a good time. WOW!
After three nights on the hook, we took a marina slip for a night and did laundry, took hot showers and took a break from the frosty dinghy rides. It's colder than anyone can remember at this time of year. We met some of the cruisers from the Dismal Swamp Canal at the second Happy Hour. Yes, you can go every night if you like.
We finally push on, and head toward the Alligator River - one of ten boats heading down. There is lively chatter on the VHF radio, and we begin to feel like we know some of the folks on the other boats. The Alligator River area is a huge preserve of wild, open land, and swamps. We glide through, seeing no houses, no roads, no telephone poles: only birds, and forests.
Through the Pungo River, across the Pamlico River, to Bear Creek, where we anchor of the night. We feel isolated, except for the radio messages now and then. No internet, no cell phone, only the occassional radio contact with fellow cruisers.
On and on, we head down the ICW toward Morehead City. We arrive late in the day, and anchor off the main channel. We miss Beaufort, where there is a huge anchorage, but we're happy to make best time South.
We finally make it to Charelston, S.C. What a beautiful city. We anchor out, and dinghy in with our bikes. We spend 6 days here, touring and just hanging out. The Charleston Museum is one of the oldest in the country. We spend half a day there. We dine in a great French restaurant (Rue de Jean) and stop in a good bike shop. Roy bikes to the top of the bridge, and gets some pix of the harbor. Bertha takes a tour of the Magnolia Plantation. We do laundry and grocery shopping, and get our house in order. We aslo take a Grayline Tour of the city and see some of the great old architecture, the ironwork, and the ramparts of Fort Sumter.
Then, we finally pull anchor and sail out into the Atlantic Ocean, bound for Hilton Head. A falling tide sucks us out the channel at 10 knots! We wave to Fort Sumter as we zip by, and then, the ocean swell begins. A West wind gives us a good push, and we sail under Jib 'n Jigger, but the swell on the quarter is somewhat sickening. As night falls, the wind picks up, but swings around to SW and the wave action aslo rises, and we find we have to tack in order to make any progress. The night is clear and cold, as we press on. The moon rises yellow and weird around 0100. We press on and around dawn we near the entrance to Port Royal Sound. We drop sails and motor up the long channel. It's hard to find the marks in the dark, but as the morning light increases, we feel safe and sound. We motor into Skull Creek, and drop the hook. Tired and happy, we hit the sack.
After a couple of days, we motor over to Broad Creek where we meet Guy and Laurine from "Tradition", a Whitby 42 from Marion. We enjoy the re-union, hear stories and have supper at Captain Woodies. They are leaving the next day after a 16 day stay. We, put our bikes ashore and spend two days biking Hilton Head Island. It's beautiful, but more built up than we would like. Nights are cold, though, and the outdoor restaurants all have gas heaters going.
And finally, we head out motoring and motor-sailing to St. Mary's for Thanksgiving. We arrive a couple of days early, and enjoy the warmer weather. It's still cold at night, but we're learning to cope with it. We meet some young folks who have sold their house, cars, etc, and are on a five year cruise. They almost dragged anchor down onto us in Charleston, and we didn't know who they were at the time. We had a good laugh over it, now that the panic of that night is just a memory.
Thanksgiving with cruisers is truly remarkable. We all showed up at Seagle's Saloon with dishes cooked on our boats. Bertha made Pumpkin Pie. The town supplies the turkey (18 of them) and we had more than we could eat. We met folks from England and Canada, and made plans for the crossing to the Bahamas. Folks with experience shared tips, and we soaked up as much knowledge as we could. There is a lot to learn.
Later we called home and caught up with family. Tomorrow we enter Florida!
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Finishing up the Chesapeake, and into North Carolina
It's been a busy week.
We made the run to Kilmarnock in quick time and found a beautiful, quiet anchorage just south of town. I put a bike ashore and biked to the American Diesel shop to buy some parts for our engine. (routine maintenance)
The next day, it was rainy, and we motored in to the Chesapeake Basin and took dockage for the night. Barb and Ranny were nice enough to drive out and have lunch with us on the boat. They also brought mail and packages that we had forwarded to their address. We had a great visit, which was over all too soon.
That evening, we had Fred Chance and Judy Horst over for wine and cheese. They had come in after us, and had anchored Wild Oats near us. They had sailed all the routes we are planning to sail, and we were glad to have the benefit of their knowledge.
Up at the crack of dawn the next day, but Fred and Judy were already out. We called them later on the radio, and found them a couple of hours ahead of us - we could just make out their sail on the horizon. But the wind abated in the afternoon, and we had to motor the rest of the way to Norfolk. We spent a noisy night at anchor in Willoughby Bay. I can remember swimming near Willoughby Spit as a boy when we lived on the Navy base. Now there is a major highway and bridge-tunnel running through it, and the traffic is quite noisy.
We spent the evening poring over our charts and guidebooks, calculating our travel time to the first lock at the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. We set the alarm for 0530, but somehow didn't get up until 0630. We took off immediately, skipping breakfast, and made our best speed to the first bridge. Having made up the hour we had overslept, we were then delayed at the second bridge where a railroad train kept the bridge closed for 20 minutes.
Finally through that bridge, and under the rest, we turned into Deep Creek. We hustled along again at our best speed to make the 1100 lock opening. Since there were four sailboats behind us, all having waited for the same bridge opening, the lockmaster held off for our arrival. We all locked up into the Dismal Swamp Canal together.
The lock is narrow and not too long. We were surprised that all three power boats and 5 sailboats would fit. But we did. The lockmaster was friendly and helpful to us newbies, and we got through without incident. (although our fenders got slimed by the grundge on the sides of the lock.
Once out, we motored along at No-Wake speed. The canal is wild and beautiful, with thick vegetation closing in on both sides. By late afternoon, we had traveled the 28 miles to the visitors center, where we were greeted by folks on boats already made fast to the seawall. We passed them lines and rafted up. We were welcomed onto their boats, and invited to happy hour. Cruisers are such friendly folks!
Later, another sailboat came alongside, and then it was our turn to welcome them and help them get moored alongside us. No Problem, although we weren't really prepared for it, and had to scramble.
We spent a delightful hour aboard Hydrotherapy, with Bill and Sue Hitchcock of Harpswell, Me. Then supper and bed.
In the morning, we took our time getting off. Yesterday's beautiful sunshine had turned to frost overnight. We use the oven to heat the cabin. Lots of folks left early, but we were in no rush. We missed the 1100 opening of the South Mill Lock, so we tied up to the seawall for a couple of hours,which gave me a chance to change the engine oil. Then we locked through with one other boat. The wind had picked up to gale force, and most travelers had hunkered down in Elizabeth City. We anchored there, as there was no room left at the famous Mariner's Wharf. We hope to find an opening there tomorrow.
Tonight, we're snug at anchor, and hope the wind subsides tomorrow. We plan to spend the day ashore.
We made the run to Kilmarnock in quick time and found a beautiful, quiet anchorage just south of town. I put a bike ashore and biked to the American Diesel shop to buy some parts for our engine. (routine maintenance)
The next day, it was rainy, and we motored in to the Chesapeake Basin and took dockage for the night. Barb and Ranny were nice enough to drive out and have lunch with us on the boat. They also brought mail and packages that we had forwarded to their address. We had a great visit, which was over all too soon.
That evening, we had Fred Chance and Judy Horst over for wine and cheese. They had come in after us, and had anchored Wild Oats near us. They had sailed all the routes we are planning to sail, and we were glad to have the benefit of their knowledge.
Up at the crack of dawn the next day, but Fred and Judy were already out. We called them later on the radio, and found them a couple of hours ahead of us - we could just make out their sail on the horizon. But the wind abated in the afternoon, and we had to motor the rest of the way to Norfolk. We spent a noisy night at anchor in Willoughby Bay. I can remember swimming near Willoughby Spit as a boy when we lived on the Navy base. Now there is a major highway and bridge-tunnel running through it, and the traffic is quite noisy.
We spent the evening poring over our charts and guidebooks, calculating our travel time to the first lock at the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. We set the alarm for 0530, but somehow didn't get up until 0630. We took off immediately, skipping breakfast, and made our best speed to the first bridge. Having made up the hour we had overslept, we were then delayed at the second bridge where a railroad train kept the bridge closed for 20 minutes.
Finally through that bridge, and under the rest, we turned into Deep Creek. We hustled along again at our best speed to make the 1100 lock opening. Since there were four sailboats behind us, all having waited for the same bridge opening, the lockmaster held off for our arrival. We all locked up into the Dismal Swamp Canal together.
The lock is narrow and not too long. We were surprised that all three power boats and 5 sailboats would fit. But we did. The lockmaster was friendly and helpful to us newbies, and we got through without incident. (although our fenders got slimed by the grundge on the sides of the lock.
Once out, we motored along at No-Wake speed. The canal is wild and beautiful, with thick vegetation closing in on both sides. By late afternoon, we had traveled the 28 miles to the visitors center, where we were greeted by folks on boats already made fast to the seawall. We passed them lines and rafted up. We were welcomed onto their boats, and invited to happy hour. Cruisers are such friendly folks!
Later, another sailboat came alongside, and then it was our turn to welcome them and help them get moored alongside us. No Problem, although we weren't really prepared for it, and had to scramble.
We spent a delightful hour aboard Hydrotherapy, with Bill and Sue Hitchcock of Harpswell, Me. Then supper and bed.
In the morning, we took our time getting off. Yesterday's beautiful sunshine had turned to frost overnight. We use the oven to heat the cabin. Lots of folks left early, but we were in no rush. We missed the 1100 opening of the South Mill Lock, so we tied up to the seawall for a couple of hours,which gave me a chance to change the engine oil. Then we locked through with one other boat. The wind had picked up to gale force, and most travelers had hunkered down in Elizabeth City. We anchored there, as there was no room left at the famous Mariner's Wharf. We hope to find an opening there tomorrow.
Tonight, we're snug at anchor, and hope the wind subsides tomorrow. We plan to spend the day ashore.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Working our way toward Norfolk
Well, the visit to St. Michaels was cut short by weather and operator error. We anchored near a couple of larger sailboats, but closer to shore. In the night the wind shifted and we swung closer to shore, as the wind piped up to 25 knots. In the early morning we decided we were in too shallow, and since it was raining off and on, we decided to take off instead of going ashore. As we motored out, Bertha noticed our dinghy was no longer following us. Heading back to the anchorage, we spotted our tender on the shore. Now, to retrieve it.
I motored near another boat anchored close-by, and as I pleaded with the occupant to help us, we ran aground. Backing down hard, we pulled off, but were reluctant to get close again. Finally, some other folks came along in their dingy and offered to help us. Cruisers are sooo helpful!
After about an hour delay, we trailed our dingy out of St. Michaels, having seen nothing of the quaint little town.
We headed south and had good wind, making about 40 miles and arriving at the Little Chaptank River around 1800. Although we were in a snug spot, it was a bit desolate, with no town and no landing spot.
The next day, we take off early. Once outside the river and into the Chesapeake, the wind picks up and we sail briskly across to Solomons Island. Entering the protected harbor around 1630, we proceed directly to the fuel dock, and tank up on water, diesel fuel and gasoline. We also get a pump-out before heading over to Mill Creek for the night. Again, the wind howls and the rigging slats and groans all night long.
In the morning, we fear we have dragged anchor a couple hundred feet, and decide to move. We motor around to Back Creek, which is closer to town, where we attempt to pick up a mooring. None is available, as most are taken by a large fleet of Canadian boats, all headed south for the winter. We finally anchor in the middle of the Back Creek channel, in spite of the traffic. Later we dingy ashore and walk the entire expanse of Solomons Island before stopping to enjoy a delightful meal at the Dry Dock.
On Monday, most of the Canadians leave, and we put the bikes ashore and go grocery shopping. After putting the groceries aboard, we head out again, this time to Calvert Cliffs with a picnic lunch. It's an 8-mile ride, and well worth it. At the cliffs we find some fossils, and sharks' teeth in the sand. Biking back through the woods is really fine. It's a crisp autumn afternoon, and the leaves are just turning. We settle for fast food on the way back. We're HUNGRY!
Back at the harbor, we pick up our dirty clothes and head for Zahniser's Marina where we enjoy HOT SHOWERS and wash some clothes. Tomorrow we travel again.
We get off around 0900 heading for Reedville. It's a good day for sailing, clear and north winds around 15 knots. But in the early afternoon the wind pipes up to 20 and we are carrying full sail. We scoot in, and furl the jib with difficulty. We arrive around 1630 and wind our way up the creek to a snug anchorage. Time to hunker down for BLOW.
The next day, Roy makes his third attempt to install a satellite radio, finally getting one that works. Meanwhile, Bertha gets a chance to re-connect with friends back at DMR and elsewhere in Massachusetts. Success at last! It's great to have sound in the cabin again. More work will be needed to get the cockpit speakers up and running. And now we'll subscribe to XM.
After a late lunch, we go ashore and tour the Fishermen's Museum. Reedville is the home of old Menhaden Factory town, with several defunct plants and lots of rotting old hulk. There is still an active ship, but the industry is definitely on its last legs. The museum is wonderful. Two volunteers give us a guided tour - we're 50% of the day's visiting public. Later, we walk to Tommy's for supper, and meet some interesting characters working on a 52 foot catamaran.
On Thursday, we depart for Kilmarnock, just 20 miles down the coast. We're on a mission there as we need to purchase some engine part at American Diesel located there. It's not as windy, and we sail quietly in a gentle breeze. We anchor way up the creek near a grain elevator used to load some sort of grain on barges. It's nice that the wind has calmed. We enjoy a clear sunset before supper. Once the sun goes down, it gets cool, and we button up the boat early.
We're starting to get anxious about getting South before it gets any colder.
I motored near another boat anchored close-by, and as I pleaded with the occupant to help us, we ran aground. Backing down hard, we pulled off, but were reluctant to get close again. Finally, some other folks came along in their dingy and offered to help us. Cruisers are sooo helpful!
After about an hour delay, we trailed our dingy out of St. Michaels, having seen nothing of the quaint little town.
We headed south and had good wind, making about 40 miles and arriving at the Little Chaptank River around 1800. Although we were in a snug spot, it was a bit desolate, with no town and no landing spot.
The next day, we take off early. Once outside the river and into the Chesapeake, the wind picks up and we sail briskly across to Solomons Island. Entering the protected harbor around 1630, we proceed directly to the fuel dock, and tank up on water, diesel fuel and gasoline. We also get a pump-out before heading over to Mill Creek for the night. Again, the wind howls and the rigging slats and groans all night long.
In the morning, we fear we have dragged anchor a couple hundred feet, and decide to move. We motor around to Back Creek, which is closer to town, where we attempt to pick up a mooring. None is available, as most are taken by a large fleet of Canadian boats, all headed south for the winter. We finally anchor in the middle of the Back Creek channel, in spite of the traffic. Later we dingy ashore and walk the entire expanse of Solomons Island before stopping to enjoy a delightful meal at the Dry Dock.
On Monday, most of the Canadians leave, and we put the bikes ashore and go grocery shopping. After putting the groceries aboard, we head out again, this time to Calvert Cliffs with a picnic lunch. It's an 8-mile ride, and well worth it. At the cliffs we find some fossils, and sharks' teeth in the sand. Biking back through the woods is really fine. It's a crisp autumn afternoon, and the leaves are just turning. We settle for fast food on the way back. We're HUNGRY!
Back at the harbor, we pick up our dirty clothes and head for Zahniser's Marina where we enjoy HOT SHOWERS and wash some clothes. Tomorrow we travel again.
We get off around 0900 heading for Reedville. It's a good day for sailing, clear and north winds around 15 knots. But in the early afternoon the wind pipes up to 20 and we are carrying full sail. We scoot in, and furl the jib with difficulty. We arrive around 1630 and wind our way up the creek to a snug anchorage. Time to hunker down for BLOW.
The next day, Roy makes his third attempt to install a satellite radio, finally getting one that works. Meanwhile, Bertha gets a chance to re-connect with friends back at DMR and elsewhere in Massachusetts. Success at last! It's great to have sound in the cabin again. More work will be needed to get the cockpit speakers up and running. And now we'll subscribe to XM.
After a late lunch, we go ashore and tour the Fishermen's Museum. Reedville is the home of old Menhaden Factory town, with several defunct plants and lots of rotting old hulk. There is still an active ship, but the industry is definitely on its last legs. The museum is wonderful. Two volunteers give us a guided tour - we're 50% of the day's visiting public. Later, we walk to Tommy's for supper, and meet some interesting characters working on a 52 foot catamaran.
On Thursday, we depart for Kilmarnock, just 20 miles down the coast. We're on a mission there as we need to purchase some engine part at American Diesel located there. It's not as windy, and we sail quietly in a gentle breeze. We anchor way up the creek near a grain elevator used to load some sort of grain on barges. It's nice that the wind has calmed. We enjoy a clear sunset before supper. Once the sun goes down, it gets cool, and we button up the boat early.
We're starting to get anxious about getting South before it gets any colder.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Boat Show and Beyond
Well, we had a great time in Annapolis. Although we arrived early, and had time to see the area before the boat show, we ended up staying a whole week.
We biked into Annapolis to attend seminars on cruising by seasoned sailors and cruising couples. They all had written their own books, and had loads of hands-on experience. It was great to be able to ask them questions and hear their sea stories. We had a nice lunch with the Hawkins from Hawk, and saw a bit of the town.
We took an afternoon to tour the U.S. Naval Academy which was very interesting. The rigor of the program was impressive, and so was the high cost. I couldn't help wondering how that money might be spent on peaceful training, and diplomatic education. In the tomb of John Paul Jones - who fought in 26 sea battles and never lost a single one - I was struck by the emphasis our culture puts on military power. It may not be the way of the future.
We returned late, and had to negotiate those wooded bike paths after dark. Spooooky!
The next day, we went through the boat show, and bought that generator and several other neat things. We looked at all the latest gear, and asked loads of questions. It's fun to shop, and of course, to gawk at all the luxury yachts that are only for the super rich.
We were picked up by the rental car folks, and put our generator in the trunk. Now we could get around and re-supply properly.
On Saturday we hosted supper for Hawk and Island Time. Good fun and we realized how the cruising community forms tight bonds in a short amount of time. We have so much in common, and can learn so much from each other.
On Sunday we drove into D.C. and went to the Newseum with the Hawkins. What a treat for a retired newspaper guy. The Newseum is partly supported by the Freedom Forum and gave us insights into the history of our First Amendment rights. And there were displays of Pulitzer Winning photography and Journalism. Great Stuff.
On Monday the Hawkins departed for the long trip to Florida, and on Tuesday Terry on Island Time departed with two new crew members. We stayed behind to work on our radio which has become a marathon project. We're trying to set up a satellite radio through the existing stereo system. So far, nothing works, but West Marine is glad to sell us more possible fixes.
Harness Creek has been so beautiful and the weather has been perfect. We hate to move, but leaves are starting to fall and we have other people to see, and places to go. The full moon on Wednesday night is brilliant, and quite romantic. How lucky we are to be here to enjoy it.
Finally, on Thursday the 16th, we pull anchor and head for St. Michaels: a quaint little sea-side village on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We have to motor most of the way, but in the late afternoon, some wind kicks up and we hoist sail. An Island Packet is just ahead of us, and we start gaining on him. Just as we're about to overtake him, he turns on his engine, rolls up sails and moves out to a quarter mile ahead. Then the same routine follows, and we catch him again. Fun!
Finally at anchor, we settle in as rain begins to fall. We need a rainy day to catch up on housework.
Roy & Bertha
We biked into Annapolis to attend seminars on cruising by seasoned sailors and cruising couples. They all had written their own books, and had loads of hands-on experience. It was great to be able to ask them questions and hear their sea stories. We had a nice lunch with the Hawkins from Hawk, and saw a bit of the town.
We took an afternoon to tour the U.S. Naval Academy which was very interesting. The rigor of the program was impressive, and so was the high cost. I couldn't help wondering how that money might be spent on peaceful training, and diplomatic education. In the tomb of John Paul Jones - who fought in 26 sea battles and never lost a single one - I was struck by the emphasis our culture puts on military power. It may not be the way of the future.
We returned late, and had to negotiate those wooded bike paths after dark. Spooooky!
The next day, we went through the boat show, and bought that generator and several other neat things. We looked at all the latest gear, and asked loads of questions. It's fun to shop, and of course, to gawk at all the luxury yachts that are only for the super rich.
We were picked up by the rental car folks, and put our generator in the trunk. Now we could get around and re-supply properly.
On Saturday we hosted supper for Hawk and Island Time. Good fun and we realized how the cruising community forms tight bonds in a short amount of time. We have so much in common, and can learn so much from each other.
On Sunday we drove into D.C. and went to the Newseum with the Hawkins. What a treat for a retired newspaper guy. The Newseum is partly supported by the Freedom Forum and gave us insights into the history of our First Amendment rights. And there were displays of Pulitzer Winning photography and Journalism. Great Stuff.
On Monday the Hawkins departed for the long trip to Florida, and on Tuesday Terry on Island Time departed with two new crew members. We stayed behind to work on our radio which has become a marathon project. We're trying to set up a satellite radio through the existing stereo system. So far, nothing works, but West Marine is glad to sell us more possible fixes.
Harness Creek has been so beautiful and the weather has been perfect. We hate to move, but leaves are starting to fall and we have other people to see, and places to go. The full moon on Wednesday night is brilliant, and quite romantic. How lucky we are to be here to enjoy it.
Finally, on Thursday the 16th, we pull anchor and head for St. Michaels: a quaint little sea-side village on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We have to motor most of the way, but in the late afternoon, some wind kicks up and we hoist sail. An Island Packet is just ahead of us, and we start gaining on him. Just as we're about to overtake him, he turns on his engine, rolls up sails and moves out to a quarter mile ahead. Then the same routine follows, and we catch him again. Fun!
Finally at anchor, we settle in as rain begins to fall. We need a rainy day to catch up on housework.
Roy & Bertha
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
The Rendezvous is Well Worth the Effort!
We arrived at the West River Sailing Club just after noon on October 1st. Although we had missed the first night, the program was going strong, and we were welcomed in warmly. We rafted alongside Guy Holbrook and Laurine on Tradition - folks who had befriended us before we even bought Serenade, and encouraged us to go with the Whitby. The group was just completing a flare demonstration and practice session.
We heard presentations about engines, about planning trips, about docking and how to handle the boat in tight quarters. We heard anecdotes about problems and solutions. We had hot showers and good food. Happy hour brought more boat talk with cruisers from near and far. The surprise entertainment after supper was a movie and popcorn: Captain Ron, which was pure fun! We slept well that night.
Breakfast was light and the conversation was heavy. We learned about engine maintenance from the premier expert, Bob Smith. We also learned about navigation software, about safety equipment and heard about the intricacies of the Whitby from Doug Stephenson who worked at the Whitby manufacturing plant. Doug really knows how these boats work, and is extremely helpful.
At last the party wound down. A couple of boats left in the afternoon, and another two departed in the evening. It was a great gathering, and we hope to stay in touch with the friendly and helpful folks we've met. We stayed till the next morning, when we moved Serenade a short distance to the Hartge Yacht Yard where we had secured a mooring for a few days. Unfortunately we missed John and Jen, who were in Annapolis for a wedding. (Retirement is keeping us very busy!)
Roy had signed on to help Terry Temperly move his boat from Atlantic Highlands back to Annapolis, as Terry had been caught by the bad weather, and had left his boat there. It was a fast delivery, and we made the trip in about 57 hours, not counting the drive in a rental car up to Sandy Hook.
Another night on the mooring, and then we took off to find a location from which we could bike to the Annapolis Boat Show. We were heading for the South River when we spied Terry in Island Time and John Cece in Menehune heading out. We fell in behind them, and sure enough, we ended up in the South River, turning into Harness Creek. It's a narrow and winding estuary, with about 10 feet of depth. There around the second corner was Hawk; John and Cindy Hawkins had been there since the Rendezvous ended.
We anchored and Terry invited us all for cocktails on Island Time.
The next day, October 8, we put the bikes ashore in a beautiful state park called Quiet Waters. We biked to the entrance, about 5 miles, and then to a laundromat where we did two loads of much needed laundry. Later we had a very nice supper aboard Hawk, and talked over our plans for the boat show. Since our generator failed we've been having a tough time keeping our refrigerater cold enough, and sometimes we don't have enough battery power to use the laptop. We're planning to purchase a small portable gas generator that will stow in the lazarette. Other items include pricing a dodger re-make that would improve visibility.
Now it's time to tidy up and perhaps read the manual for our battery charger. More in a few days.
We heard presentations about engines, about planning trips, about docking and how to handle the boat in tight quarters. We heard anecdotes about problems and solutions. We had hot showers and good food. Happy hour brought more boat talk with cruisers from near and far. The surprise entertainment after supper was a movie and popcorn: Captain Ron, which was pure fun! We slept well that night.
Breakfast was light and the conversation was heavy. We learned about engine maintenance from the premier expert, Bob Smith. We also learned about navigation software, about safety equipment and heard about the intricacies of the Whitby from Doug Stephenson who worked at the Whitby manufacturing plant. Doug really knows how these boats work, and is extremely helpful.
At last the party wound down. A couple of boats left in the afternoon, and another two departed in the evening. It was a great gathering, and we hope to stay in touch with the friendly and helpful folks we've met. We stayed till the next morning, when we moved Serenade a short distance to the Hartge Yacht Yard where we had secured a mooring for a few days. Unfortunately we missed John and Jen, who were in Annapolis for a wedding. (Retirement is keeping us very busy!)
Roy had signed on to help Terry Temperly move his boat from Atlantic Highlands back to Annapolis, as Terry had been caught by the bad weather, and had left his boat there. It was a fast delivery, and we made the trip in about 57 hours, not counting the drive in a rental car up to Sandy Hook.
Another night on the mooring, and then we took off to find a location from which we could bike to the Annapolis Boat Show. We were heading for the South River when we spied Terry in Island Time and John Cece in Menehune heading out. We fell in behind them, and sure enough, we ended up in the South River, turning into Harness Creek. It's a narrow and winding estuary, with about 10 feet of depth. There around the second corner was Hawk; John and Cindy Hawkins had been there since the Rendezvous ended.
We anchored and Terry invited us all for cocktails on Island Time.
The next day, October 8, we put the bikes ashore in a beautiful state park called Quiet Waters. We biked to the entrance, about 5 miles, and then to a laundromat where we did two loads of much needed laundry. Later we had a very nice supper aboard Hawk, and talked over our plans for the boat show. Since our generator failed we've been having a tough time keeping our refrigerater cold enough, and sometimes we don't have enough battery power to use the laptop. We're planning to purchase a small portable gas generator that will stow in the lazarette. Other items include pricing a dodger re-make that would improve visibility.
Now it's time to tidy up and perhaps read the manual for our battery charger. More in a few days.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
A Mad Dash to the Rendezvous
We had planned to spend a day or two at Sandy Hook, as Bertha has relatives there. But we were forced to stay till the weather cleared, which put a squeeze on getting to the Rendezvous.
Bertha arranged for a rental car, so in our first day in port, we were able to visit two cousins and the venerable Mrs Nannini, mother of Bertha's childhood best friend. We had a good visit, and even had time to pick up some groceries on the way back.
The next day, we tended the Young family plot at Glenwood Cemetary - a melancholy but satisfying ritual..... a reminder that we cruise now while we are able. Then off to return the rental car. The nice folks at Enterprise delivered us back to the harbor, where we did some laundry. Since it was Saturday night, we took in a movie, and had supper at a nice restaurant with Mexican cuisine. The rain and wind continued.
Our schedule required us to take off the next day, but NOAA weather reports called for 8-12 foot seas in the aftermath of hurricane Kyle. We delayed one more day. We spent Sunday morning with a leisurely breakfast and NPR. We made ready for getting underway, but were interrupted by a call from Trisha (Bertha's cousin) inviting us for supper. We were off again, and had a wonderful evening ashore. Although we really didn't know these people well, they took us in us as if we were the closest of friends. It restored our faith in humanity. Back on the dock, we settled up, and heard from the launch driver that the weather was clearing. He expected a mass exodus the following morning.
We were off before sunrise on Monday, 9-29-08. We rounded Sandy Hook at 0715 bound for Cape May. With a north wind, we made good speed for a couple of hours under jib n jigger, with 3-5 foot waves on top of a long-period Easterly swell. But as the wind died, we had to hoist the main. Late in the day we passed school after school of bait fish - their tail fins dimpled the water like raindrops in a squall. Gradually, the swell disappeared, and the seas flattened out. We were able to pick up some speed, and estimated that we'd make Cape May by dawn. As night closed in, we seemed to pick up more speed. The green running lights of half a dozen other boats made the trip a little less lonely, but they all seemed to be just a little faster than us.
At 0400 we were nearing Cape May. We had to decide whether to go in an anchor, get some rest, and resume our trip in the daylight, or keep going and catch the favorable current in the Delaware Bay. (the current just happened to turn fair at 0440) Although Bertha and I had each gotten in only a couple of hours of sleep, we weren't overly tired, so we opted to keep going. I scrambled to find a safe channel through the shoals. (Another boat passed us heading up the bay close to shore, and for a short time I followed, but it seemed risky, and we steered out to deeper water) Finally, we made our turn, fired up the engine, and motor sailed into Delaware Bay. As the sun came up, we were safely through the shoals and pushed along by a 2-knot current.
All the way up the bay, we wondered whether we could keep going long enough to make it through the Delaware - Chesapeake Canal. Our other option would be to anchor at Reedy Island and rest, but again, that would require waiting for a favorable current. Again, we decided to keep going. This time, we were indeed tired, but neither of us felt like sleeping. It was broad daylight, and we were moving well. So into the canal we went at about 1400 and zipped along with the current made 8 knots. At the other end, we passed up a couple of possible anchorages, and finally came to rest in the Sassafras River, where four other cruising boats were already at anchor.
After 36 hours underway, it was time for a cold beer and relaxation. We had been motoring for 12 hours, so there was plenty of hot water. We ate a light supper, took hot showers, put on clean PJ's and were in bed by 2030. There is no sleep as restful as after a successful passage. But, it's now September 30th, and we should be at the Whitby Rendezvous no later than tomorrow..... and we still have about 35 miles to go.
Bertha arranged for a rental car, so in our first day in port, we were able to visit two cousins and the venerable Mrs Nannini, mother of Bertha's childhood best friend. We had a good visit, and even had time to pick up some groceries on the way back.
The next day, we tended the Young family plot at Glenwood Cemetary - a melancholy but satisfying ritual..... a reminder that we cruise now while we are able. Then off to return the rental car. The nice folks at Enterprise delivered us back to the harbor, where we did some laundry. Since it was Saturday night, we took in a movie, and had supper at a nice restaurant with Mexican cuisine. The rain and wind continued.
Our schedule required us to take off the next day, but NOAA weather reports called for 8-12 foot seas in the aftermath of hurricane Kyle. We delayed one more day. We spent Sunday morning with a leisurely breakfast and NPR. We made ready for getting underway, but were interrupted by a call from Trisha (Bertha's cousin) inviting us for supper. We were off again, and had a wonderful evening ashore. Although we really didn't know these people well, they took us in us as if we were the closest of friends. It restored our faith in humanity. Back on the dock, we settled up, and heard from the launch driver that the weather was clearing. He expected a mass exodus the following morning.
We were off before sunrise on Monday, 9-29-08. We rounded Sandy Hook at 0715 bound for Cape May. With a north wind, we made good speed for a couple of hours under jib n jigger, with 3-5 foot waves on top of a long-period Easterly swell. But as the wind died, we had to hoist the main. Late in the day we passed school after school of bait fish - their tail fins dimpled the water like raindrops in a squall. Gradually, the swell disappeared, and the seas flattened out. We were able to pick up some speed, and estimated that we'd make Cape May by dawn. As night closed in, we seemed to pick up more speed. The green running lights of half a dozen other boats made the trip a little less lonely, but they all seemed to be just a little faster than us.
At 0400 we were nearing Cape May. We had to decide whether to go in an anchor, get some rest, and resume our trip in the daylight, or keep going and catch the favorable current in the Delaware Bay. (the current just happened to turn fair at 0440) Although Bertha and I had each gotten in only a couple of hours of sleep, we weren't overly tired, so we opted to keep going. I scrambled to find a safe channel through the shoals. (Another boat passed us heading up the bay close to shore, and for a short time I followed, but it seemed risky, and we steered out to deeper water) Finally, we made our turn, fired up the engine, and motor sailed into Delaware Bay. As the sun came up, we were safely through the shoals and pushed along by a 2-knot current.
All the way up the bay, we wondered whether we could keep going long enough to make it through the Delaware - Chesapeake Canal. Our other option would be to anchor at Reedy Island and rest, but again, that would require waiting for a favorable current. Again, we decided to keep going. This time, we were indeed tired, but neither of us felt like sleeping. It was broad daylight, and we were moving well. So into the canal we went at about 1400 and zipped along with the current made 8 knots. At the other end, we passed up a couple of possible anchorages, and finally came to rest in the Sassafras River, where four other cruising boats were already at anchor.
After 36 hours underway, it was time for a cold beer and relaxation. We had been motoring for 12 hours, so there was plenty of hot water. We ate a light supper, took hot showers, put on clean PJ's and were in bed by 2030. There is no sleep as restful as after a successful passage. But, it's now September 30th, and we should be at the Whitby Rendezvous no later than tomorrow..... and we still have about 35 miles to go.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Off Again - Heading South for the Winter
We decided to head south a little sooner than we would have liked, in order to attend the Whitby Rendezvous in the Chesapeake on Sept. 30 - Oct 2. The early departure schedule put a strain on our preparations, which we vow won't happen again.
We finally put our last load of provisions aboard in a rush on Saturday night, Sept 20th. Colin drove our car back, and we were free to depart. We waited till Sunday morning, so we could take on water and settle our bill at the boatyard.
We took off around 1000 on a beautiful clear Sunday morning. No wind, so we had to motor down the Sakonnet, saying good-bye to Tiverton, Fogland Pt., Sachuest Pt. We finally got some wind and headed for Block Island, but around 1500 it seemed we wouldn't make it before dark in the light air, so we started the engine again. I was napping when it died. Now we had to sail - no choice. As darkness neared, Bertha suggested we change course and head for the Harbor of Refuge at Point Judith. It would be easier to enter and anchor under sail. No sooner did we change course than the wind shifted against us, and we had to tack our way in. It was dark and the wind was very light when we glided by the breakwater and into the protected harbor. We dropped anchor in 20 feet of water, and had supper.
9-22-08 We spent the day getting the engine running (clogged fuel filters) and installing our new chart plotter. We realized that we had been a bit complacent about preparation, and that we really need that checklist of preparations so that nothing is forgotton or overlooked. During the late afternoon five other boats join us in the anchorage, and the wind picks up. We spend the night rolling and pitching in the brisk breeze.
9-23-08 Off at 1015 (the last boat out) heading for the Race. We sail with jib 'n jigger as the winds are up, but another boat that left just before us is under full sail, and we probably should have done the same. After a few hours, he was way ahead of us. We passed south of Fisher's Island and went through The Race with a 2.0 knot favorable current. We headed up to Old Saybrook on the Connecticut River, where we hoped to find a mooring for the night. Calling the harbormaster's phone number, a woman answered. I asked if I had the correct number, and she said he's right here. He advised that we could pick up (no fee) any empty mooring north of the Dock and Dine. That was all we needed to hear. We found a mooring, then rowed to the Dock and Dine for supper. Great food. (pricey) The row back against the current took 3/4 hour as the tide had turned. But it was a beautiful clear night, with bright stars, and a mild breeze.
9-24-08 Off by 0900 for a long sail down Long Island Sound. Another beautiful, clear autumn day. We sailed "wing and wing" making around 5 knots through the water, but the negative current slowed our actual progress to 4. In the late afternoon a wind shift enabled us to sail on a braod reach, and we picked up speed. We arrived at Huntington Bay around 2100, tired but pleased with our progress. We dropped anchor along the East shore near the beach club and hit the sack.
9-25-08 Off at sunrise in a spanking breeze. We want to catch the current in Hell Gate, and reach a safe harbor before the predicted gales arrives. Under jib n' jigger, we hustle along at 7 knots. The Coast Guard has closed the West Passage near the UN Building, so we must call for a bridge opening on the East Passage of Roosevelt Island. As we enter the East River, the current turns fair, and our speed increases to 8 knots. We hurry along past La Guardia, Rikers Island, and under the Throggs Neck Bridge we furl the headsail and motor. The bridge opening goes smoothly, and we pass through along with several other boats. We're amazed that we can hold up NYC traffic, but we do. Then it's on past the Manhattan skyscrapers, and out into New York Harbor. The Statue of Liberty greets us as we turn South toward the Verazanno Narrows. Many big ships around us, but hardly any are moving.
With the sails out again, the wind is mysteriously calm. I think of re-starting the engine, but finally we get some wind as we progress into the lower bay. The wave action is crazy with short steep waves hitting us from two directions. Finally, there's enough wind to get us moving, and we cross to Sandy Hook. Pulling in behind the breakwater at Atlantic Highlands, the wind pipes up to 20. The predicted gales must be arriving. We clear the decks, and button up for a blow. Then down below for a hot meal and a movie. We sleep well amid the creaking and moaning as the gale howls outside.
We finally put our last load of provisions aboard in a rush on Saturday night, Sept 20th. Colin drove our car back, and we were free to depart. We waited till Sunday morning, so we could take on water and settle our bill at the boatyard.
We took off around 1000 on a beautiful clear Sunday morning. No wind, so we had to motor down the Sakonnet, saying good-bye to Tiverton, Fogland Pt., Sachuest Pt. We finally got some wind and headed for Block Island, but around 1500 it seemed we wouldn't make it before dark in the light air, so we started the engine again. I was napping when it died. Now we had to sail - no choice. As darkness neared, Bertha suggested we change course and head for the Harbor of Refuge at Point Judith. It would be easier to enter and anchor under sail. No sooner did we change course than the wind shifted against us, and we had to tack our way in. It was dark and the wind was very light when we glided by the breakwater and into the protected harbor. We dropped anchor in 20 feet of water, and had supper.
9-22-08 We spent the day getting the engine running (clogged fuel filters) and installing our new chart plotter. We realized that we had been a bit complacent about preparation, and that we really need that checklist of preparations so that nothing is forgotton or overlooked. During the late afternoon five other boats join us in the anchorage, and the wind picks up. We spend the night rolling and pitching in the brisk breeze.
9-23-08 Off at 1015 (the last boat out) heading for the Race. We sail with jib 'n jigger as the winds are up, but another boat that left just before us is under full sail, and we probably should have done the same. After a few hours, he was way ahead of us. We passed south of Fisher's Island and went through The Race with a 2.0 knot favorable current. We headed up to Old Saybrook on the Connecticut River, where we hoped to find a mooring for the night. Calling the harbormaster's phone number, a woman answered. I asked if I had the correct number, and she said he's right here. He advised that we could pick up (no fee) any empty mooring north of the Dock and Dine. That was all we needed to hear. We found a mooring, then rowed to the Dock and Dine for supper. Great food. (pricey) The row back against the current took 3/4 hour as the tide had turned. But it was a beautiful clear night, with bright stars, and a mild breeze.
9-24-08 Off by 0900 for a long sail down Long Island Sound. Another beautiful, clear autumn day. We sailed "wing and wing" making around 5 knots through the water, but the negative current slowed our actual progress to 4. In the late afternoon a wind shift enabled us to sail on a braod reach, and we picked up speed. We arrived at Huntington Bay around 2100, tired but pleased with our progress. We dropped anchor along the East shore near the beach club and hit the sack.
9-25-08 Off at sunrise in a spanking breeze. We want to catch the current in Hell Gate, and reach a safe harbor before the predicted gales arrives. Under jib n' jigger, we hustle along at 7 knots. The Coast Guard has closed the West Passage near the UN Building, so we must call for a bridge opening on the East Passage of Roosevelt Island. As we enter the East River, the current turns fair, and our speed increases to 8 knots. We hurry along past La Guardia, Rikers Island, and under the Throggs Neck Bridge we furl the headsail and motor. The bridge opening goes smoothly, and we pass through along with several other boats. We're amazed that we can hold up NYC traffic, but we do. Then it's on past the Manhattan skyscrapers, and out into New York Harbor. The Statue of Liberty greets us as we turn South toward the Verazanno Narrows. Many big ships around us, but hardly any are moving.
With the sails out again, the wind is mysteriously calm. I think of re-starting the engine, but finally we get some wind as we progress into the lower bay. The wave action is crazy with short steep waves hitting us from two directions. Finally, there's enough wind to get us moving, and we cross to Sandy Hook. Pulling in behind the breakwater at Atlantic Highlands, the wind pipes up to 20. The predicted gales must be arriving. We clear the decks, and button up for a blow. Then down below for a hot meal and a movie. We sleep well amid the creaking and moaning as the gale howls outside.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Winding our way back Home
Our trip back was as much fun as the trip north. We started back by heading south around Port Clyde to Allen Island. Very quiet and no other boats in the cove where we anchored. At low tide we realized why - we were too close to some rocks, but fortunately, we never touched them. We waited for the morning fog to burn off before continuing across Muscongus Bay to Linekin Bay. We anchored right off the Linekin Bay Resort, and wondered what it would be like to spend a week as a guest there.
Next, we headed around to Cundy's Harbor where we were able to meet up with Deb and Jody for a late afternoon sail. Afterward, we went ashore for lobster at the Holbrook General Store and Co-op. It's been kept alive by locals who don't want the waterfront taken over by condo development. After we said our good-byes, we planned the 16 hour passage from Cundy's Harbor to Gloucester.
We decided to hold off departing till 1000 so that we would arrive the next morning after sunrise. But the nice north wind, got us about 3 hours ahead of schedule. Around 0300 we shortened sail to slow us down and arrived at 0615 just at sunrise.
We found a place to anchor off a beautiful sandy beach and hit the sack. The night passage was easy, as we had a following wind and no wave action at all. Our GPS went dead when we attemppted to turn on the light, so we had to navigate using the GPS at the chart table. Also, the compass light decided to go out, and we had to use a flashlight to check our course. Otherwise, it was a beautiful night, with lots of bright stars - no moon.
After a swim, we hauled anchor and went into the inner harbor where we picked up a mooring at Brown's Marina. The annual Schooner Fistival was starting, so we were just in time. We spent the rest of the day ashore, taking in the Fishermen's Memorial, the Maritime Museum and the Farmers' Market. The next day we met Mark Wolfe for lunch at a dandy gourmet lunch place called Passports. We biked all over Glouceste looking for a good deal on a chartplotter, but didn't make a purchase. The next day, we moved to a dock, and met Angela and Tom for supper. Watched the Parade of Lights, the fireworks and ate a fantastic fish supper. It was good to catch up old friends.
Off the next day at the crack of dawn we had to hustle to make the 1630 current change in the Cape Cod Canal. With a favorable breeze, we made it with ease, and zipped through around 1400. We came to rest in Marion's outer harbor and spent a peaceful night on the hook. Bertha finally got to swim in comfortable, warmer water.
Next we made our way to Tarpaulin Cove, where we found loads of smaller power boats. We realized that it was Saturday and Sunny! They were all gone by sundown and we had the place to ourselves - with five other cruising sailboats. I snorkled some, but found the visibility very poor.
Next we sailed up to Padanaram where we rented a mooring from the NBYC. Very nice. Met Frank Graves, a Brewer 44 owner and very nice fellow. Had supper at the Black Bass and walked around a lot.
Our last day, saw dying breezes as we made our way across Buzzards' Bay to Sachuest Pt. We anchored at dusk and spent the night trying to get ready to end our cruise. The next day I went spearfishing, but didn't bring in a fish. The first time I've gotten skunked there.
We left around 1400 and arrived at our mooring around 1600. Coling picked us up and we went to the Moulin Rouge for a homecoming celebration.
Great to be back at home again - for a while.
Next, we headed around to Cundy's Harbor where we were able to meet up with Deb and Jody for a late afternoon sail. Afterward, we went ashore for lobster at the Holbrook General Store and Co-op. It's been kept alive by locals who don't want the waterfront taken over by condo development. After we said our good-byes, we planned the 16 hour passage from Cundy's Harbor to Gloucester.
We decided to hold off departing till 1000 so that we would arrive the next morning after sunrise. But the nice north wind, got us about 3 hours ahead of schedule. Around 0300 we shortened sail to slow us down and arrived at 0615 just at sunrise.
We found a place to anchor off a beautiful sandy beach and hit the sack. The night passage was easy, as we had a following wind and no wave action at all. Our GPS went dead when we attemppted to turn on the light, so we had to navigate using the GPS at the chart table. Also, the compass light decided to go out, and we had to use a flashlight to check our course. Otherwise, it was a beautiful night, with lots of bright stars - no moon.
After a swim, we hauled anchor and went into the inner harbor where we picked up a mooring at Brown's Marina. The annual Schooner Fistival was starting, so we were just in time. We spent the rest of the day ashore, taking in the Fishermen's Memorial, the Maritime Museum and the Farmers' Market. The next day we met Mark Wolfe for lunch at a dandy gourmet lunch place called Passports. We biked all over Glouceste looking for a good deal on a chartplotter, but didn't make a purchase. The next day, we moved to a dock, and met Angela and Tom for supper. Watched the Parade of Lights, the fireworks and ate a fantastic fish supper. It was good to catch up old friends.
Off the next day at the crack of dawn we had to hustle to make the 1630 current change in the Cape Cod Canal. With a favorable breeze, we made it with ease, and zipped through around 1400. We came to rest in Marion's outer harbor and spent a peaceful night on the hook. Bertha finally got to swim in comfortable, warmer water.
Next we made our way to Tarpaulin Cove, where we found loads of smaller power boats. We realized that it was Saturday and Sunny! They were all gone by sundown and we had the place to ourselves - with five other cruising sailboats. I snorkled some, but found the visibility very poor.
Next we sailed up to Padanaram where we rented a mooring from the NBYC. Very nice. Met Frank Graves, a Brewer 44 owner and very nice fellow. Had supper at the Black Bass and walked around a lot.
Our last day, saw dying breezes as we made our way across Buzzards' Bay to Sachuest Pt. We anchored at dusk and spent the night trying to get ready to end our cruise. The next day I went spearfishing, but didn't bring in a fish. The first time I've gotten skunked there.
We left around 1400 and arrived at our mooring around 1600. Coling picked us up and we went to the Moulin Rouge for a homecoming celebration.
Great to be back at home again - for a while.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Down East
Well, a lot of water has passed under our keel since the last posting.
We left Rockland and headed out to North Haven Island. Anchored in a deep cove in Pulpit Harbor where we were amazed at the scenery and the unspoiled beauty of this island. On the second day we put the bikes ashore and rode around to a small town on the South side. Later, we biked out to the North Haven Oyster Company and purchased a dozen. The owner explained how he raises the oysters in pens, and how pure the water must be in order for them to be good to eat. Aquaculture is rising in Maine. We had oysters on the half shell on the next two evenings.
After a couple of days we sadly had to decide to forego our plans to visit Mt. Desert Island. It's just too far. We headed down to Allen Island for one night and then to Linekin Bay. Finally we sailed to Cundy's Harbor on the New Meadow River where we were able to meet friends and go ashore for dinner at a coop. waterfront seafood restaurant and grocery store. Very rustic and fun. The coop was formed to save the family docks, that would otherwise go to Condo's.
From Cundy's Harbor we sailed south on what was forecast to be strong north winds. we left at 1030 and arrived in Gloucester, Ma around 0630 the following morning, bleary-eyed and glad to get off the boat. The ovenight sail was taxing, but we had favorable winds and wave height of only one foot. Our GPS stopped working and we had to rely on the back-up at the nav. desk. The compass light went out, so we had to use a small flashlight to tell if we were on course. We lost the wind around 2300 and had to motor for a few hours. But we arrived with the sun and found a convenient anchorage. We slept first, then swam and showered, then went ashore. Gloucester has such a seafaring history, it's great to walk around and see the historic sites. The Fishermen's Memorial was impressive, honoring over 5,200 Gloucester fishermen lost at sea.
Well, now that we're back in Massachusetts, it's time we got into some warm water to swim and do some spearfishing. We'll head for the Cape and then the canal soon. We should be back home in about a week.
RSB
We left Rockland and headed out to North Haven Island. Anchored in a deep cove in Pulpit Harbor where we were amazed at the scenery and the unspoiled beauty of this island. On the second day we put the bikes ashore and rode around to a small town on the South side. Later, we biked out to the North Haven Oyster Company and purchased a dozen. The owner explained how he raises the oysters in pens, and how pure the water must be in order for them to be good to eat. Aquaculture is rising in Maine. We had oysters on the half shell on the next two evenings.
After a couple of days we sadly had to decide to forego our plans to visit Mt. Desert Island. It's just too far. We headed down to Allen Island for one night and then to Linekin Bay. Finally we sailed to Cundy's Harbor on the New Meadow River where we were able to meet friends and go ashore for dinner at a coop. waterfront seafood restaurant and grocery store. Very rustic and fun. The coop was formed to save the family docks, that would otherwise go to Condo's.
From Cundy's Harbor we sailed south on what was forecast to be strong north winds. we left at 1030 and arrived in Gloucester, Ma around 0630 the following morning, bleary-eyed and glad to get off the boat. The ovenight sail was taxing, but we had favorable winds and wave height of only one foot. Our GPS stopped working and we had to rely on the back-up at the nav. desk. The compass light went out, so we had to use a small flashlight to tell if we were on course. We lost the wind around 2300 and had to motor for a few hours. But we arrived with the sun and found a convenient anchorage. We slept first, then swam and showered, then went ashore. Gloucester has such a seafaring history, it's great to walk around and see the historic sites. The Fishermen's Memorial was impressive, honoring over 5,200 Gloucester fishermen lost at sea.
Well, now that we're back in Massachusetts, it's time we got into some warm water to swim and do some spearfishing. We'll head for the Cape and then the canal soon. We should be back home in about a week.
RSB
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Back on the Water
Well, we were off-line for a few days as we went ashore to attend a family reunion in Groton, Vermont. What a time! We motored way up the Sheepscot River to Wiscasset where we moored the boat for a few days at the Eddy Marina. The proprietors couldn't have been nicer - retired Navy folks.
We rented a car and drove to Vermont where the whole extended family gathered, numbering 22 minus a few from far away, and had a great time. Bluegrass music was the order of the day, but I did get in a little trout fishing, and was able to land a little trout.
Jessie Mae, our hostess at Seyon Lodge, organized a hike to Owl's Head Peak, which was perfect for us older hikers. (like being on top of the world without having to sleep on a glacier)
The food was great, and lots of people cooked their special dishes.
All too soon it was over, and we said our long good-byes. Bertha and I took an extra day to get back, staying in Montpelier for one night with George and Suzanne.
Back on the boat the next day, we had a ton of groceries, provisions, the recently repaired outboard motor, and a new wash-down pump to replace the one that hasn't worked. We couldn't quite bring ourselves to depart at 1700 after the drive back to Maine, so we stayed one more night.
Getting off the next day was slow, but we made it in time to catch the 1400 opening of the Southport Swing Bridge. We navigated through Townsend Gut, and into Boothbay Harbor by around 1500. We dinghied ashore and walked around the tourist town. Bertha shopped, and I watched.
Later, we had chowder at the Chowder House and went back to the boat, tired, but happy. The forecast was for clear weather and a northwest breeze.
Sure enough, Wednesday dawned clear as a bell with 10 knots of NW breeze. We fueled up and filled up with water at Carousel Marina, then headed out. The sailing was great! We charged along at 7 knots, under jib and jigger, as the wind built to 25 knots in the afternoon. We turned north to Rockland, and made it in around 1700 against a strong falling tide.
Now it's time to catch up on some maintenance.
I'll try to post some pictures soon.
RSB
We rented a car and drove to Vermont where the whole extended family gathered, numbering 22 minus a few from far away, and had a great time. Bluegrass music was the order of the day, but I did get in a little trout fishing, and was able to land a little trout.
Jessie Mae, our hostess at Seyon Lodge, organized a hike to Owl's Head Peak, which was perfect for us older hikers. (like being on top of the world without having to sleep on a glacier)
The food was great, and lots of people cooked their special dishes.
All too soon it was over, and we said our long good-byes. Bertha and I took an extra day to get back, staying in Montpelier for one night with George and Suzanne.
Back on the boat the next day, we had a ton of groceries, provisions, the recently repaired outboard motor, and a new wash-down pump to replace the one that hasn't worked. We couldn't quite bring ourselves to depart at 1700 after the drive back to Maine, so we stayed one more night.
Getting off the next day was slow, but we made it in time to catch the 1400 opening of the Southport Swing Bridge. We navigated through Townsend Gut, and into Boothbay Harbor by around 1500. We dinghied ashore and walked around the tourist town. Bertha shopped, and I watched.
Later, we had chowder at the Chowder House and went back to the boat, tired, but happy. The forecast was for clear weather and a northwest breeze.
Sure enough, Wednesday dawned clear as a bell with 10 knots of NW breeze. We fueled up and filled up with water at Carousel Marina, then headed out. The sailing was great! We charged along at 7 knots, under jib and jigger, as the wind built to 25 knots in the afternoon. We turned north to Rockland, and made it in around 1700 against a strong falling tide.
Now it's time to catch up on some maintenance.
I'll try to post some pictures soon.
RSB
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Sunshine and Fair Winds
We awoke at dawn with bright sun shining in the portlights. The grey skies were gone at last and we roused ourselves to take advantage. The water was like glass and the trees so green in the morning sun. Motored down Quahog Bay with the falling tide and hoisted the sails as we headed out to Cape Small. Lots of sails were on the horizon, and we headed over toward Seguin Island. The wind shifted and went slack around noon, so we motored up the Sheepscot to Five Islands Harbor. The yacht club there provides free moorings, and we grabbed one right off the Five Islands Lobster Company. Later we went ashore for a fresh lobster supper on their deck overlooking the harbor. Quite picturesque!
Monday, August 11, 2008
Up to Rockbound Coast of Maine-8-11-08
Leaving So. Freeport behind on a clear and sunny day, we sailed to Great Diamond Island, but found no room to anchor. Headed back up to Long Island where we anchored and swam. On Sunday, we put the bikes ashore and rode around the island. Had sandwiches at the small store, and later ice cream at the same spot. (Not many to choose from.) More swimming where Bertha was joined by a curious harbor seal. Later we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. A perfect day.
Awoke to heavy fog, which lifted in a couple of hours. We finally got off at 1130 with 9 knots of NE wind. South around the tip of Long Island, then off into the open water: wind building to 17 knots and waves to five feet. We were crashing along for a couple of hours when we finally could tack and head north into Quahog bay. The rocks were all around the entrance, and we were nervous nellies as we checked and rechecked our position and the chart. Made it under power, and found a quiet anchorage around 1600 in the lee of Snow Island way up at the head of the bay.
We'll take our time getting to Wiscasset, where we'll leave the boat for a weekend while we travel to Vermont for the family re-union.
Cheers to all!
Roy & Bertha
Awoke to heavy fog, which lifted in a couple of hours. We finally got off at 1130 with 9 knots of NE wind. South around the tip of Long Island, then off into the open water: wind building to 17 knots and waves to five feet. We were crashing along for a couple of hours when we finally could tack and head north into Quahog bay. The rocks were all around the entrance, and we were nervous nellies as we checked and rechecked our position and the chart. Made it under power, and found a quiet anchorage around 1600 in the lee of Snow Island way up at the head of the bay.
We'll take our time getting to Wiscasset, where we'll leave the boat for a weekend while we travel to Vermont for the family re-union.
Cheers to all!
Roy & Bertha
Sunday, August 10, 2008
Catching Up
Hello out there!
Sorry it's been so long since we updated, but we weren't sure this thing was working. We also have an energy shortage since our generator quit working a couple of weeks ago.
We're in Maine now, having taken four days to get here. Northeast winds required us to motor from Marion to Boston. We spent a couple of days there, then motored to Star Island off Portsmouth, N.H. Then had a good sailing day to Biddiford, Me and the next day made it to Great Chebeague Island in Casco Bay.
We spent a couple of days in Freeport, where brother George and Suzanne and Molly met us. We motored over to Jewell Island, which is wild and beautiful,. We hiked most of the island, but were pretty much socked in with rain and fog. Molly and I did get some snorkling in, but we were glad we had wetsuits. Had a great visit with family, and played cards in the cabin during the rain. Lots of laughs and fun!
Had a nice sail back to So. Freeport where we collected our second folding bike and put our guests ashore. Spent another day biking around Freeport, shopping and replenishing our stores. We took our outboard motor to the shop for repair, and will do without till we return.
Had what seemed like six inches of rain, then a beautiful clear day to sail out to Diamond Island. Ended up anchoring off Long Island.
Bertha says to say hello to everyone, and we'll keep this up to date a little more frequently in the future. Please e-mail me or call 508-455-7823.
RSB
Sorry it's been so long since we updated, but we weren't sure this thing was working. We also have an energy shortage since our generator quit working a couple of weeks ago.
We're in Maine now, having taken four days to get here. Northeast winds required us to motor from Marion to Boston. We spent a couple of days there, then motored to Star Island off Portsmouth, N.H. Then had a good sailing day to Biddiford, Me and the next day made it to Great Chebeague Island in Casco Bay.
We spent a couple of days in Freeport, where brother George and Suzanne and Molly met us. We motored over to Jewell Island, which is wild and beautiful,. We hiked most of the island, but were pretty much socked in with rain and fog. Molly and I did get some snorkling in, but we were glad we had wetsuits. Had a great visit with family, and played cards in the cabin during the rain. Lots of laughs and fun!
Had a nice sail back to So. Freeport where we collected our second folding bike and put our guests ashore. Spent another day biking around Freeport, shopping and replenishing our stores. We took our outboard motor to the shop for repair, and will do without till we return.
Had what seemed like six inches of rain, then a beautiful clear day to sail out to Diamond Island. Ended up anchoring off Long Island.
Bertha says to say hello to everyone, and we'll keep this up to date a little more frequently in the future. Please e-mail me or call 508-455-7823.
RSB
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Big Beach Party
We sailed to Marion to pick up Mark and Veronica. Next day, we sailed over to Pocasset and anchored inside of Bassetts Island. The place was packed when we arrived around 1400 and people kept arriving by boat all afternoon.
We dinghied ashore and walked the beach. An older couple going the opposite direction commented that there is a large party going on down there. It certainly was! A live band was set up on a barge, and there must have been fifty small boats anchored all around it, with plenty of people on the beach dancing and whooping it up.
We listened for a while then walked back to our more serene part of the island. At least we can say, "We were there!"
RSB
We dinghied ashore and walked the beach. An older couple going the opposite direction commented that there is a large party going on down there. It certainly was! A live band was set up on a barge, and there must have been fifty small boats anchored all around it, with plenty of people on the beach dancing and whooping it up.
We listened for a while then walked back to our more serene part of the island. At least we can say, "We were there!"
RSB
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Stormy Weather
Well, we got back to pick up our re-built starter motor, with hopes of taking off after picking it up. All night we heard thunder and rain beating on the coachroof. This morning there was no relief, and as of suppertime, it's still raining. I even set out a couple of buckets to collect rainwater to scrub the teak with if it ever clears up.
So we read our books, cleaned the V-berth, re-organized some compartments, and generally had a restfull day. But it's dreary and we're now up against a time squeeze if we're to make it to Marion on time to meet Mark & Veronica on Friday evening. If we get off at the crack of dawn, we might make it, but now that the wind is down from the 30 knots we saw this afternoon to only about 7, it will be a slower trip up Buzzard's Bay.
The joys of cruising.
So we read our books, cleaned the V-berth, re-organized some compartments, and generally had a restfull day. But it's dreary and we're now up against a time squeeze if we're to make it to Marion on time to meet Mark & Veronica on Friday evening. If we get off at the crack of dawn, we might make it, but now that the wind is down from the 30 knots we saw this afternoon to only about 7, it will be a slower trip up Buzzard's Bay.
The joys of cruising.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
FREE AT LAST ! FREE AT LAST !
The start of our cruise was not precision by any means. There was so much to do to close up the house and arrange for care while we're away that we slid our schedule by a couple of days.
Then we arrived to find that the engine wouldn't start. We had a mechanic help get it started, by replacing the starter motor. (Fortunately we had a spare on board) We finally got off on Monday, but agreed to stay close-by so that we could have the starter motor re-built and pick it up. We also found that we were fresh out of propane on one of our two tanks, so we decided to refill it.
And then, there's the little list of items we forgot. The key to the clock, the bridge tablecloth, olive oil. You know how it is. So we'll stop back at our mooring one more time, then depart the area.
On Tuesday, after liesurely breakfast, I attempted the simple replacement of the oldest portlight on the boat. The previous owner had replaced all but one, and he had left the replacement still in it's box ready to go. It turned out to be an all day project. Once all was ready, I opened the tube of silicone sealant only to find it had hardened. We put the folding bike in the inflatable, and I motored in to the beach. Using Bertha's handheld GPS, I biked the 5 miles to the nearest marine store and purchased a new tube of silicone. Back on Serenade by 6:00 pm, I gooped up the portlight and started to screw it down. The nuts wouldn't thread on because some of the bolts had been shortened with a hacksaw. Trying times, and right at happy hour, too.
Finally got all but one tight, and scrounged for a similar bolt in my jar of odds and ends to complete the job.
Rain later last night did NOT leak in, so it looks like it was worthwhile.
Now it's time to get underway and catch the rising tide back to Tiverton.
7-23-08
Then we arrived to find that the engine wouldn't start. We had a mechanic help get it started, by replacing the starter motor. (Fortunately we had a spare on board) We finally got off on Monday, but agreed to stay close-by so that we could have the starter motor re-built and pick it up. We also found that we were fresh out of propane on one of our two tanks, so we decided to refill it.
And then, there's the little list of items we forgot. The key to the clock, the bridge tablecloth, olive oil. You know how it is. So we'll stop back at our mooring one more time, then depart the area.
On Tuesday, after liesurely breakfast, I attempted the simple replacement of the oldest portlight on the boat. The previous owner had replaced all but one, and he had left the replacement still in it's box ready to go. It turned out to be an all day project. Once all was ready, I opened the tube of silicone sealant only to find it had hardened. We put the folding bike in the inflatable, and I motored in to the beach. Using Bertha's handheld GPS, I biked the 5 miles to the nearest marine store and purchased a new tube of silicone. Back on Serenade by 6:00 pm, I gooped up the portlight and started to screw it down. The nuts wouldn't thread on because some of the bolts had been shortened with a hacksaw. Trying times, and right at happy hour, too.
Finally got all but one tight, and scrounged for a similar bolt in my jar of odds and ends to complete the job.
Rain later last night did NOT leak in, so it looks like it was worthwhile.
Now it's time to get underway and catch the rising tide back to Tiverton.
7-23-08
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