Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Finishing up the Chesapeake, and into North Carolina
It's been a busy week.
We made the run to Kilmarnock in quick time and found a beautiful, quiet anchorage just south of town. I put a bike ashore and biked to the American Diesel shop to buy some parts for our engine. (routine maintenance)
The next day, it was rainy, and we motored in to the Chesapeake Basin and took dockage for the night. Barb and Ranny were nice enough to drive out and have lunch with us on the boat. They also brought mail and packages that we had forwarded to their address. We had a great visit, which was over all too soon.
That evening, we had Fred Chance and Judy Horst over for wine and cheese. They had come in after us, and had anchored Wild Oats near us. They had sailed all the routes we are planning to sail, and we were glad to have the benefit of their knowledge.
Up at the crack of dawn the next day, but Fred and Judy were already out. We called them later on the radio, and found them a couple of hours ahead of us - we could just make out their sail on the horizon. But the wind abated in the afternoon, and we had to motor the rest of the way to Norfolk. We spent a noisy night at anchor in Willoughby Bay. I can remember swimming near Willoughby Spit as a boy when we lived on the Navy base. Now there is a major highway and bridge-tunnel running through it, and the traffic is quite noisy.
We spent the evening poring over our charts and guidebooks, calculating our travel time to the first lock at the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. We set the alarm for 0530, but somehow didn't get up until 0630. We took off immediately, skipping breakfast, and made our best speed to the first bridge. Having made up the hour we had overslept, we were then delayed at the second bridge where a railroad train kept the bridge closed for 20 minutes.
Finally through that bridge, and under the rest, we turned into Deep Creek. We hustled along again at our best speed to make the 1100 lock opening. Since there were four sailboats behind us, all having waited for the same bridge opening, the lockmaster held off for our arrival. We all locked up into the Dismal Swamp Canal together.
The lock is narrow and not too long. We were surprised that all three power boats and 5 sailboats would fit. But we did. The lockmaster was friendly and helpful to us newbies, and we got through without incident. (although our fenders got slimed by the grundge on the sides of the lock.
Once out, we motored along at No-Wake speed. The canal is wild and beautiful, with thick vegetation closing in on both sides. By late afternoon, we had traveled the 28 miles to the visitors center, where we were greeted by folks on boats already made fast to the seawall. We passed them lines and rafted up. We were welcomed onto their boats, and invited to happy hour. Cruisers are such friendly folks!
Later, another sailboat came alongside, and then it was our turn to welcome them and help them get moored alongside us. No Problem, although we weren't really prepared for it, and had to scramble.
We spent a delightful hour aboard Hydrotherapy, with Bill and Sue Hitchcock of Harpswell, Me. Then supper and bed.
In the morning, we took our time getting off. Yesterday's beautiful sunshine had turned to frost overnight. We use the oven to heat the cabin. Lots of folks left early, but we were in no rush. We missed the 1100 opening of the South Mill Lock, so we tied up to the seawall for a couple of hours,which gave me a chance to change the engine oil. Then we locked through with one other boat. The wind had picked up to gale force, and most travelers had hunkered down in Elizabeth City. We anchored there, as there was no room left at the famous Mariner's Wharf. We hope to find an opening there tomorrow.
Tonight, we're snug at anchor, and hope the wind subsides tomorrow. We plan to spend the day ashore.
We made the run to Kilmarnock in quick time and found a beautiful, quiet anchorage just south of town. I put a bike ashore and biked to the American Diesel shop to buy some parts for our engine. (routine maintenance)
The next day, it was rainy, and we motored in to the Chesapeake Basin and took dockage for the night. Barb and Ranny were nice enough to drive out and have lunch with us on the boat. They also brought mail and packages that we had forwarded to their address. We had a great visit, which was over all too soon.
That evening, we had Fred Chance and Judy Horst over for wine and cheese. They had come in after us, and had anchored Wild Oats near us. They had sailed all the routes we are planning to sail, and we were glad to have the benefit of their knowledge.
Up at the crack of dawn the next day, but Fred and Judy were already out. We called them later on the radio, and found them a couple of hours ahead of us - we could just make out their sail on the horizon. But the wind abated in the afternoon, and we had to motor the rest of the way to Norfolk. We spent a noisy night at anchor in Willoughby Bay. I can remember swimming near Willoughby Spit as a boy when we lived on the Navy base. Now there is a major highway and bridge-tunnel running through it, and the traffic is quite noisy.
We spent the evening poring over our charts and guidebooks, calculating our travel time to the first lock at the entrance to the Dismal Swamp Canal. We set the alarm for 0530, but somehow didn't get up until 0630. We took off immediately, skipping breakfast, and made our best speed to the first bridge. Having made up the hour we had overslept, we were then delayed at the second bridge where a railroad train kept the bridge closed for 20 minutes.
Finally through that bridge, and under the rest, we turned into Deep Creek. We hustled along again at our best speed to make the 1100 lock opening. Since there were four sailboats behind us, all having waited for the same bridge opening, the lockmaster held off for our arrival. We all locked up into the Dismal Swamp Canal together.
The lock is narrow and not too long. We were surprised that all three power boats and 5 sailboats would fit. But we did. The lockmaster was friendly and helpful to us newbies, and we got through without incident. (although our fenders got slimed by the grundge on the sides of the lock.
Once out, we motored along at No-Wake speed. The canal is wild and beautiful, with thick vegetation closing in on both sides. By late afternoon, we had traveled the 28 miles to the visitors center, where we were greeted by folks on boats already made fast to the seawall. We passed them lines and rafted up. We were welcomed onto their boats, and invited to happy hour. Cruisers are such friendly folks!
Later, another sailboat came alongside, and then it was our turn to welcome them and help them get moored alongside us. No Problem, although we weren't really prepared for it, and had to scramble.
We spent a delightful hour aboard Hydrotherapy, with Bill and Sue Hitchcock of Harpswell, Me. Then supper and bed.
In the morning, we took our time getting off. Yesterday's beautiful sunshine had turned to frost overnight. We use the oven to heat the cabin. Lots of folks left early, but we were in no rush. We missed the 1100 opening of the South Mill Lock, so we tied up to the seawall for a couple of hours,which gave me a chance to change the engine oil. Then we locked through with one other boat. The wind had picked up to gale force, and most travelers had hunkered down in Elizabeth City. We anchored there, as there was no room left at the famous Mariner's Wharf. We hope to find an opening there tomorrow.
Tonight, we're snug at anchor, and hope the wind subsides tomorrow. We plan to spend the day ashore.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Working our way toward Norfolk
Well, the visit to St. Michaels was cut short by weather and operator error. We anchored near a couple of larger sailboats, but closer to shore. In the night the wind shifted and we swung closer to shore, as the wind piped up to 25 knots. In the early morning we decided we were in too shallow, and since it was raining off and on, we decided to take off instead of going ashore. As we motored out, Bertha noticed our dinghy was no longer following us. Heading back to the anchorage, we spotted our tender on the shore. Now, to retrieve it.
I motored near another boat anchored close-by, and as I pleaded with the occupant to help us, we ran aground. Backing down hard, we pulled off, but were reluctant to get close again. Finally, some other folks came along in their dingy and offered to help us. Cruisers are sooo helpful!
After about an hour delay, we trailed our dingy out of St. Michaels, having seen nothing of the quaint little town.
We headed south and had good wind, making about 40 miles and arriving at the Little Chaptank River around 1800. Although we were in a snug spot, it was a bit desolate, with no town and no landing spot.
The next day, we take off early. Once outside the river and into the Chesapeake, the wind picks up and we sail briskly across to Solomons Island. Entering the protected harbor around 1630, we proceed directly to the fuel dock, and tank up on water, diesel fuel and gasoline. We also get a pump-out before heading over to Mill Creek for the night. Again, the wind howls and the rigging slats and groans all night long.
In the morning, we fear we have dragged anchor a couple hundred feet, and decide to move. We motor around to Back Creek, which is closer to town, where we attempt to pick up a mooring. None is available, as most are taken by a large fleet of Canadian boats, all headed south for the winter. We finally anchor in the middle of the Back Creek channel, in spite of the traffic. Later we dingy ashore and walk the entire expanse of Solomons Island before stopping to enjoy a delightful meal at the Dry Dock.
On Monday, most of the Canadians leave, and we put the bikes ashore and go grocery shopping. After putting the groceries aboard, we head out again, this time to Calvert Cliffs with a picnic lunch. It's an 8-mile ride, and well worth it. At the cliffs we find some fossils, and sharks' teeth in the sand. Biking back through the woods is really fine. It's a crisp autumn afternoon, and the leaves are just turning. We settle for fast food on the way back. We're HUNGRY!
Back at the harbor, we pick up our dirty clothes and head for Zahniser's Marina where we enjoy HOT SHOWERS and wash some clothes. Tomorrow we travel again.
We get off around 0900 heading for Reedville. It's a good day for sailing, clear and north winds around 15 knots. But in the early afternoon the wind pipes up to 20 and we are carrying full sail. We scoot in, and furl the jib with difficulty. We arrive around 1630 and wind our way up the creek to a snug anchorage. Time to hunker down for BLOW.
The next day, Roy makes his third attempt to install a satellite radio, finally getting one that works. Meanwhile, Bertha gets a chance to re-connect with friends back at DMR and elsewhere in Massachusetts. Success at last! It's great to have sound in the cabin again. More work will be needed to get the cockpit speakers up and running. And now we'll subscribe to XM.
After a late lunch, we go ashore and tour the Fishermen's Museum. Reedville is the home of old Menhaden Factory town, with several defunct plants and lots of rotting old hulk. There is still an active ship, but the industry is definitely on its last legs. The museum is wonderful. Two volunteers give us a guided tour - we're 50% of the day's visiting public. Later, we walk to Tommy's for supper, and meet some interesting characters working on a 52 foot catamaran.
On Thursday, we depart for Kilmarnock, just 20 miles down the coast. We're on a mission there as we need to purchase some engine part at American Diesel located there. It's not as windy, and we sail quietly in a gentle breeze. We anchor way up the creek near a grain elevator used to load some sort of grain on barges. It's nice that the wind has calmed. We enjoy a clear sunset before supper. Once the sun goes down, it gets cool, and we button up the boat early.
We're starting to get anxious about getting South before it gets any colder.
I motored near another boat anchored close-by, and as I pleaded with the occupant to help us, we ran aground. Backing down hard, we pulled off, but were reluctant to get close again. Finally, some other folks came along in their dingy and offered to help us. Cruisers are sooo helpful!
After about an hour delay, we trailed our dingy out of St. Michaels, having seen nothing of the quaint little town.
We headed south and had good wind, making about 40 miles and arriving at the Little Chaptank River around 1800. Although we were in a snug spot, it was a bit desolate, with no town and no landing spot.
The next day, we take off early. Once outside the river and into the Chesapeake, the wind picks up and we sail briskly across to Solomons Island. Entering the protected harbor around 1630, we proceed directly to the fuel dock, and tank up on water, diesel fuel and gasoline. We also get a pump-out before heading over to Mill Creek for the night. Again, the wind howls and the rigging slats and groans all night long.
In the morning, we fear we have dragged anchor a couple hundred feet, and decide to move. We motor around to Back Creek, which is closer to town, where we attempt to pick up a mooring. None is available, as most are taken by a large fleet of Canadian boats, all headed south for the winter. We finally anchor in the middle of the Back Creek channel, in spite of the traffic. Later we dingy ashore and walk the entire expanse of Solomons Island before stopping to enjoy a delightful meal at the Dry Dock.
On Monday, most of the Canadians leave, and we put the bikes ashore and go grocery shopping. After putting the groceries aboard, we head out again, this time to Calvert Cliffs with a picnic lunch. It's an 8-mile ride, and well worth it. At the cliffs we find some fossils, and sharks' teeth in the sand. Biking back through the woods is really fine. It's a crisp autumn afternoon, and the leaves are just turning. We settle for fast food on the way back. We're HUNGRY!
Back at the harbor, we pick up our dirty clothes and head for Zahniser's Marina where we enjoy HOT SHOWERS and wash some clothes. Tomorrow we travel again.
We get off around 0900 heading for Reedville. It's a good day for sailing, clear and north winds around 15 knots. But in the early afternoon the wind pipes up to 20 and we are carrying full sail. We scoot in, and furl the jib with difficulty. We arrive around 1630 and wind our way up the creek to a snug anchorage. Time to hunker down for BLOW.
The next day, Roy makes his third attempt to install a satellite radio, finally getting one that works. Meanwhile, Bertha gets a chance to re-connect with friends back at DMR and elsewhere in Massachusetts. Success at last! It's great to have sound in the cabin again. More work will be needed to get the cockpit speakers up and running. And now we'll subscribe to XM.
After a late lunch, we go ashore and tour the Fishermen's Museum. Reedville is the home of old Menhaden Factory town, with several defunct plants and lots of rotting old hulk. There is still an active ship, but the industry is definitely on its last legs. The museum is wonderful. Two volunteers give us a guided tour - we're 50% of the day's visiting public. Later, we walk to Tommy's for supper, and meet some interesting characters working on a 52 foot catamaran.
On Thursday, we depart for Kilmarnock, just 20 miles down the coast. We're on a mission there as we need to purchase some engine part at American Diesel located there. It's not as windy, and we sail quietly in a gentle breeze. We anchor way up the creek near a grain elevator used to load some sort of grain on barges. It's nice that the wind has calmed. We enjoy a clear sunset before supper. Once the sun goes down, it gets cool, and we button up the boat early.
We're starting to get anxious about getting South before it gets any colder.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Boat Show and Beyond
Well, we had a great time in Annapolis. Although we arrived early, and had time to see the area before the boat show, we ended up staying a whole week.
We biked into Annapolis to attend seminars on cruising by seasoned sailors and cruising couples. They all had written their own books, and had loads of hands-on experience. It was great to be able to ask them questions and hear their sea stories. We had a nice lunch with the Hawkins from Hawk, and saw a bit of the town.
We took an afternoon to tour the U.S. Naval Academy which was very interesting. The rigor of the program was impressive, and so was the high cost. I couldn't help wondering how that money might be spent on peaceful training, and diplomatic education. In the tomb of John Paul Jones - who fought in 26 sea battles and never lost a single one - I was struck by the emphasis our culture puts on military power. It may not be the way of the future.
We returned late, and had to negotiate those wooded bike paths after dark. Spooooky!
The next day, we went through the boat show, and bought that generator and several other neat things. We looked at all the latest gear, and asked loads of questions. It's fun to shop, and of course, to gawk at all the luxury yachts that are only for the super rich.
We were picked up by the rental car folks, and put our generator in the trunk. Now we could get around and re-supply properly.
On Saturday we hosted supper for Hawk and Island Time. Good fun and we realized how the cruising community forms tight bonds in a short amount of time. We have so much in common, and can learn so much from each other.
On Sunday we drove into D.C. and went to the Newseum with the Hawkins. What a treat for a retired newspaper guy. The Newseum is partly supported by the Freedom Forum and gave us insights into the history of our First Amendment rights. And there were displays of Pulitzer Winning photography and Journalism. Great Stuff.
On Monday the Hawkins departed for the long trip to Florida, and on Tuesday Terry on Island Time departed with two new crew members. We stayed behind to work on our radio which has become a marathon project. We're trying to set up a satellite radio through the existing stereo system. So far, nothing works, but West Marine is glad to sell us more possible fixes.
Harness Creek has been so beautiful and the weather has been perfect. We hate to move, but leaves are starting to fall and we have other people to see, and places to go. The full moon on Wednesday night is brilliant, and quite romantic. How lucky we are to be here to enjoy it.
Finally, on Thursday the 16th, we pull anchor and head for St. Michaels: a quaint little sea-side village on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We have to motor most of the way, but in the late afternoon, some wind kicks up and we hoist sail. An Island Packet is just ahead of us, and we start gaining on him. Just as we're about to overtake him, he turns on his engine, rolls up sails and moves out to a quarter mile ahead. Then the same routine follows, and we catch him again. Fun!
Finally at anchor, we settle in as rain begins to fall. We need a rainy day to catch up on housework.
Roy & Bertha
We biked into Annapolis to attend seminars on cruising by seasoned sailors and cruising couples. They all had written their own books, and had loads of hands-on experience. It was great to be able to ask them questions and hear their sea stories. We had a nice lunch with the Hawkins from Hawk, and saw a bit of the town.
We took an afternoon to tour the U.S. Naval Academy which was very interesting. The rigor of the program was impressive, and so was the high cost. I couldn't help wondering how that money might be spent on peaceful training, and diplomatic education. In the tomb of John Paul Jones - who fought in 26 sea battles and never lost a single one - I was struck by the emphasis our culture puts on military power. It may not be the way of the future.
We returned late, and had to negotiate those wooded bike paths after dark. Spooooky!
The next day, we went through the boat show, and bought that generator and several other neat things. We looked at all the latest gear, and asked loads of questions. It's fun to shop, and of course, to gawk at all the luxury yachts that are only for the super rich.
We were picked up by the rental car folks, and put our generator in the trunk. Now we could get around and re-supply properly.
On Saturday we hosted supper for Hawk and Island Time. Good fun and we realized how the cruising community forms tight bonds in a short amount of time. We have so much in common, and can learn so much from each other.
On Sunday we drove into D.C. and went to the Newseum with the Hawkins. What a treat for a retired newspaper guy. The Newseum is partly supported by the Freedom Forum and gave us insights into the history of our First Amendment rights. And there were displays of Pulitzer Winning photography and Journalism. Great Stuff.
On Monday the Hawkins departed for the long trip to Florida, and on Tuesday Terry on Island Time departed with two new crew members. We stayed behind to work on our radio which has become a marathon project. We're trying to set up a satellite radio through the existing stereo system. So far, nothing works, but West Marine is glad to sell us more possible fixes.
Harness Creek has been so beautiful and the weather has been perfect. We hate to move, but leaves are starting to fall and we have other people to see, and places to go. The full moon on Wednesday night is brilliant, and quite romantic. How lucky we are to be here to enjoy it.
Finally, on Thursday the 16th, we pull anchor and head for St. Michaels: a quaint little sea-side village on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. We have to motor most of the way, but in the late afternoon, some wind kicks up and we hoist sail. An Island Packet is just ahead of us, and we start gaining on him. Just as we're about to overtake him, he turns on his engine, rolls up sails and moves out to a quarter mile ahead. Then the same routine follows, and we catch him again. Fun!
Finally at anchor, we settle in as rain begins to fall. We need a rainy day to catch up on housework.
Roy & Bertha
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
The Rendezvous is Well Worth the Effort!
We arrived at the West River Sailing Club just after noon on October 1st. Although we had missed the first night, the program was going strong, and we were welcomed in warmly. We rafted alongside Guy Holbrook and Laurine on Tradition - folks who had befriended us before we even bought Serenade, and encouraged us to go with the Whitby. The group was just completing a flare demonstration and practice session.
We heard presentations about engines, about planning trips, about docking and how to handle the boat in tight quarters. We heard anecdotes about problems and solutions. We had hot showers and good food. Happy hour brought more boat talk with cruisers from near and far. The surprise entertainment after supper was a movie and popcorn: Captain Ron, which was pure fun! We slept well that night.
Breakfast was light and the conversation was heavy. We learned about engine maintenance from the premier expert, Bob Smith. We also learned about navigation software, about safety equipment and heard about the intricacies of the Whitby from Doug Stephenson who worked at the Whitby manufacturing plant. Doug really knows how these boats work, and is extremely helpful.
At last the party wound down. A couple of boats left in the afternoon, and another two departed in the evening. It was a great gathering, and we hope to stay in touch with the friendly and helpful folks we've met. We stayed till the next morning, when we moved Serenade a short distance to the Hartge Yacht Yard where we had secured a mooring for a few days. Unfortunately we missed John and Jen, who were in Annapolis for a wedding. (Retirement is keeping us very busy!)
Roy had signed on to help Terry Temperly move his boat from Atlantic Highlands back to Annapolis, as Terry had been caught by the bad weather, and had left his boat there. It was a fast delivery, and we made the trip in about 57 hours, not counting the drive in a rental car up to Sandy Hook.
Another night on the mooring, and then we took off to find a location from which we could bike to the Annapolis Boat Show. We were heading for the South River when we spied Terry in Island Time and John Cece in Menehune heading out. We fell in behind them, and sure enough, we ended up in the South River, turning into Harness Creek. It's a narrow and winding estuary, with about 10 feet of depth. There around the second corner was Hawk; John and Cindy Hawkins had been there since the Rendezvous ended.
We anchored and Terry invited us all for cocktails on Island Time.
The next day, October 8, we put the bikes ashore in a beautiful state park called Quiet Waters. We biked to the entrance, about 5 miles, and then to a laundromat where we did two loads of much needed laundry. Later we had a very nice supper aboard Hawk, and talked over our plans for the boat show. Since our generator failed we've been having a tough time keeping our refrigerater cold enough, and sometimes we don't have enough battery power to use the laptop. We're planning to purchase a small portable gas generator that will stow in the lazarette. Other items include pricing a dodger re-make that would improve visibility.
Now it's time to tidy up and perhaps read the manual for our battery charger. More in a few days.
We heard presentations about engines, about planning trips, about docking and how to handle the boat in tight quarters. We heard anecdotes about problems and solutions. We had hot showers and good food. Happy hour brought more boat talk with cruisers from near and far. The surprise entertainment after supper was a movie and popcorn: Captain Ron, which was pure fun! We slept well that night.
Breakfast was light and the conversation was heavy. We learned about engine maintenance from the premier expert, Bob Smith. We also learned about navigation software, about safety equipment and heard about the intricacies of the Whitby from Doug Stephenson who worked at the Whitby manufacturing plant. Doug really knows how these boats work, and is extremely helpful.
At last the party wound down. A couple of boats left in the afternoon, and another two departed in the evening. It was a great gathering, and we hope to stay in touch with the friendly and helpful folks we've met. We stayed till the next morning, when we moved Serenade a short distance to the Hartge Yacht Yard where we had secured a mooring for a few days. Unfortunately we missed John and Jen, who were in Annapolis for a wedding. (Retirement is keeping us very busy!)
Roy had signed on to help Terry Temperly move his boat from Atlantic Highlands back to Annapolis, as Terry had been caught by the bad weather, and had left his boat there. It was a fast delivery, and we made the trip in about 57 hours, not counting the drive in a rental car up to Sandy Hook.
Another night on the mooring, and then we took off to find a location from which we could bike to the Annapolis Boat Show. We were heading for the South River when we spied Terry in Island Time and John Cece in Menehune heading out. We fell in behind them, and sure enough, we ended up in the South River, turning into Harness Creek. It's a narrow and winding estuary, with about 10 feet of depth. There around the second corner was Hawk; John and Cindy Hawkins had been there since the Rendezvous ended.
We anchored and Terry invited us all for cocktails on Island Time.
The next day, October 8, we put the bikes ashore in a beautiful state park called Quiet Waters. We biked to the entrance, about 5 miles, and then to a laundromat where we did two loads of much needed laundry. Later we had a very nice supper aboard Hawk, and talked over our plans for the boat show. Since our generator failed we've been having a tough time keeping our refrigerater cold enough, and sometimes we don't have enough battery power to use the laptop. We're planning to purchase a small portable gas generator that will stow in the lazarette. Other items include pricing a dodger re-make that would improve visibility.
Now it's time to tidy up and perhaps read the manual for our battery charger. More in a few days.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
A Mad Dash to the Rendezvous
We had planned to spend a day or two at Sandy Hook, as Bertha has relatives there. But we were forced to stay till the weather cleared, which put a squeeze on getting to the Rendezvous.
Bertha arranged for a rental car, so in our first day in port, we were able to visit two cousins and the venerable Mrs Nannini, mother of Bertha's childhood best friend. We had a good visit, and even had time to pick up some groceries on the way back.
The next day, we tended the Young family plot at Glenwood Cemetary - a melancholy but satisfying ritual..... a reminder that we cruise now while we are able. Then off to return the rental car. The nice folks at Enterprise delivered us back to the harbor, where we did some laundry. Since it was Saturday night, we took in a movie, and had supper at a nice restaurant with Mexican cuisine. The rain and wind continued.
Our schedule required us to take off the next day, but NOAA weather reports called for 8-12 foot seas in the aftermath of hurricane Kyle. We delayed one more day. We spent Sunday morning with a leisurely breakfast and NPR. We made ready for getting underway, but were interrupted by a call from Trisha (Bertha's cousin) inviting us for supper. We were off again, and had a wonderful evening ashore. Although we really didn't know these people well, they took us in us as if we were the closest of friends. It restored our faith in humanity. Back on the dock, we settled up, and heard from the launch driver that the weather was clearing. He expected a mass exodus the following morning.
We were off before sunrise on Monday, 9-29-08. We rounded Sandy Hook at 0715 bound for Cape May. With a north wind, we made good speed for a couple of hours under jib n jigger, with 3-5 foot waves on top of a long-period Easterly swell. But as the wind died, we had to hoist the main. Late in the day we passed school after school of bait fish - their tail fins dimpled the water like raindrops in a squall. Gradually, the swell disappeared, and the seas flattened out. We were able to pick up some speed, and estimated that we'd make Cape May by dawn. As night closed in, we seemed to pick up more speed. The green running lights of half a dozen other boats made the trip a little less lonely, but they all seemed to be just a little faster than us.
At 0400 we were nearing Cape May. We had to decide whether to go in an anchor, get some rest, and resume our trip in the daylight, or keep going and catch the favorable current in the Delaware Bay. (the current just happened to turn fair at 0440) Although Bertha and I had each gotten in only a couple of hours of sleep, we weren't overly tired, so we opted to keep going. I scrambled to find a safe channel through the shoals. (Another boat passed us heading up the bay close to shore, and for a short time I followed, but it seemed risky, and we steered out to deeper water) Finally, we made our turn, fired up the engine, and motor sailed into Delaware Bay. As the sun came up, we were safely through the shoals and pushed along by a 2-knot current.
All the way up the bay, we wondered whether we could keep going long enough to make it through the Delaware - Chesapeake Canal. Our other option would be to anchor at Reedy Island and rest, but again, that would require waiting for a favorable current. Again, we decided to keep going. This time, we were indeed tired, but neither of us felt like sleeping. It was broad daylight, and we were moving well. So into the canal we went at about 1400 and zipped along with the current made 8 knots. At the other end, we passed up a couple of possible anchorages, and finally came to rest in the Sassafras River, where four other cruising boats were already at anchor.
After 36 hours underway, it was time for a cold beer and relaxation. We had been motoring for 12 hours, so there was plenty of hot water. We ate a light supper, took hot showers, put on clean PJ's and were in bed by 2030. There is no sleep as restful as after a successful passage. But, it's now September 30th, and we should be at the Whitby Rendezvous no later than tomorrow..... and we still have about 35 miles to go.
Bertha arranged for a rental car, so in our first day in port, we were able to visit two cousins and the venerable Mrs Nannini, mother of Bertha's childhood best friend. We had a good visit, and even had time to pick up some groceries on the way back.
The next day, we tended the Young family plot at Glenwood Cemetary - a melancholy but satisfying ritual..... a reminder that we cruise now while we are able. Then off to return the rental car. The nice folks at Enterprise delivered us back to the harbor, where we did some laundry. Since it was Saturday night, we took in a movie, and had supper at a nice restaurant with Mexican cuisine. The rain and wind continued.
Our schedule required us to take off the next day, but NOAA weather reports called for 8-12 foot seas in the aftermath of hurricane Kyle. We delayed one more day. We spent Sunday morning with a leisurely breakfast and NPR. We made ready for getting underway, but were interrupted by a call from Trisha (Bertha's cousin) inviting us for supper. We were off again, and had a wonderful evening ashore. Although we really didn't know these people well, they took us in us as if we were the closest of friends. It restored our faith in humanity. Back on the dock, we settled up, and heard from the launch driver that the weather was clearing. He expected a mass exodus the following morning.
We were off before sunrise on Monday, 9-29-08. We rounded Sandy Hook at 0715 bound for Cape May. With a north wind, we made good speed for a couple of hours under jib n jigger, with 3-5 foot waves on top of a long-period Easterly swell. But as the wind died, we had to hoist the main. Late in the day we passed school after school of bait fish - their tail fins dimpled the water like raindrops in a squall. Gradually, the swell disappeared, and the seas flattened out. We were able to pick up some speed, and estimated that we'd make Cape May by dawn. As night closed in, we seemed to pick up more speed. The green running lights of half a dozen other boats made the trip a little less lonely, but they all seemed to be just a little faster than us.
At 0400 we were nearing Cape May. We had to decide whether to go in an anchor, get some rest, and resume our trip in the daylight, or keep going and catch the favorable current in the Delaware Bay. (the current just happened to turn fair at 0440) Although Bertha and I had each gotten in only a couple of hours of sleep, we weren't overly tired, so we opted to keep going. I scrambled to find a safe channel through the shoals. (Another boat passed us heading up the bay close to shore, and for a short time I followed, but it seemed risky, and we steered out to deeper water) Finally, we made our turn, fired up the engine, and motor sailed into Delaware Bay. As the sun came up, we were safely through the shoals and pushed along by a 2-knot current.
All the way up the bay, we wondered whether we could keep going long enough to make it through the Delaware - Chesapeake Canal. Our other option would be to anchor at Reedy Island and rest, but again, that would require waiting for a favorable current. Again, we decided to keep going. This time, we were indeed tired, but neither of us felt like sleeping. It was broad daylight, and we were moving well. So into the canal we went at about 1400 and zipped along with the current made 8 knots. At the other end, we passed up a couple of possible anchorages, and finally came to rest in the Sassafras River, where four other cruising boats were already at anchor.
After 36 hours underway, it was time for a cold beer and relaxation. We had been motoring for 12 hours, so there was plenty of hot water. We ate a light supper, took hot showers, put on clean PJ's and were in bed by 2030. There is no sleep as restful as after a successful passage. But, it's now September 30th, and we should be at the Whitby Rendezvous no later than tomorrow..... and we still have about 35 miles to go.
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